Český Krumlov, south Bohemia’s fairy tale city

Český Krumlov is quite possibly one of the most beautiful cities in all of the Czech Republic. In recent times it has become one of the top destinations for many tourists due to its picturesque castle, set high a rocky cliff, seeming to hang on by a thread. The beautiful pink tower at one end of the castle seems fit for any princess, Rapunzel in particular, and offers all visitors the most amazing, spectacular view of the city including the Vltava River, which snakes around in a huge ‘S’ curve. In the summer it is the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing boating excursion past the quaint old, red-roofed houses. In the winter, the Christmas Markets are in full swing and offer lots of traditional gifts, snacks and hot drinks.

Fairy Tale City

Walking through the streets of Český Krumlov you might feel as if you are reliving one of Hans Christian Andersen’s stories and that you might come upon a poor maid looking for her lost glass slipper or a prince rushing off to find a princess in a glass casket. While none of that might actually happen, you will be pleasantly surprised as each twist and turn of the streets and lanes leads you down another magical path. You’ll pass small artisans shops full of handmade wonders, restaurants and cafes which will tempt you with their smells and art galleries which display the work of many local painters and sculptures.

Historical City

Český Krumlov was first established nearly 1000 years ago and for the first few centuries was settled and occupied by German speaking people. In the early 14th century, most of the castle as we know it today was built by the famous Rosenberg family, a prominent family at the time who held much power and wealth in the area.

Due to their patronage of many artists and skilled workers, the small settlement grew substantially. Also, gold was discovered nearby and soon Český Krumlov was booming. For several centuries the town was mainly Czech speaking.

In more modern times, the city was briefly held by Germans during World War II but was recovered by the Czechs after the war. During the communist regime, some of the city fell into disrepair, but fortunately, it has been returned to its splendor and glory since the Velvet Revolution. Now tourists delight in the historical houses and buildings that populate the center of the city.

How to get to Český Krumlov

Český Krumlov is located about 2 hours from Prague by car or a bit longer if you choose to take a public bus or train. There are day tours from Prague which run daily, offering round trip service to and from Český Krumlov. A better option is to take one of the two day trips to Český Krumlov, so that you can really enjoy the city and spend the night exploring, which is quite possibly even more mystical and exciting as during the day.

Or, if you are taking a European trip, you could always get a one way ticket, either making it the half-way point for a trip to Vienna or Munich.

There are no airports very close to Český Krumlov, so ground transportation is the only option. Unless you are adventurous enough to sail down the Vltava River on a rafting tour, which has very popular in recent years. The rental of kayaks and small boats is possible from points in and around the town so that you and friends or family can paddle down the river, taking in the view of the town from the water.

Holašovice, survivor of plague, wars and neglect

The history of Holašovice has been one filled with continual battles against many odds, both man-made and natural. The area was first mentioned in the late 13th century under the reign of King Wenceslaus II, although settlements and people had long occupied the area for centuries before. From that time on, its population and buildings rose and fell drastically, even if the actual numbers were quite small.

The Bubonic Plague nearly completely destroyed the town and killed all but two of the residents in the 1520s. There is still a column which stands above the graves of those who died, erected in their memory.

Over the following three centuries the number of citizens grew, most of them German speaking. The highest reported population was 164, at the turn of the 19th century.

Following World War II, Germans were forced to leave the borders of the Czech Republic and the village was completely deserted and desolate. It continued like this for 50 years until the Velvet Revolution brought new energy and new desire to restore the village and its many historical buildings, which had maintained their traditional South Bohemian Folk Baroque style for which it is so famous today.

Rural Baroque Style

Also known as South Bohemian Folk Baroque, this style appeared in the early 1800’s. It is so unique in its form as it uses many common baroque elements but in slightly unusual and uncustomary ways. Baroque is known for its grandiose and awe-inspiring adornments and structures, mostly in churches, palaces and castles throughout Europe in the 17th Century.

In Holašovice however, these same themes have been applied to the houses, farmsteads, granaries, public houses, workshops and a school, leaving them all extremely ornate and distinct from a typical Czech village. The buildings shine and impress visitors with ornamental gable walls, relief ornaments, sun motifs, and stucco ornamentation to mention a few.

Holašovice Survives till Today

Despite the best efforts of wars, plagues and abandonment Holašovice has returned to its peak number of inhabitants, 140 villagers. The traditional buildings remain as an open air museum, allowing visitors to pass around the large town green in which there is a small pond. All of the 23 historical buildings face the town green, which makes it easy for visitors to wander about from farmstead to blacksmith shop to chapel, admiring the unique architecture style, ornate facades decorated with flowers, suns, and the pastel colors that all of the buildings are painted in.

The town itself is quaint and slow-paced and a wonderful escape from the more traditional tourist paths and sites.

How to get to Holašovice

Holašovice can be reached by one of many options and from several points. From Prague it is a 2-hour drive, covering 150 kilometers (95 miles) on Highway D4. This is of course the most direct and quickest way possible.

There are also various forms of public transportation that can get you there too. Trains run from Prague hourly, taking slightly over 2.25 hours. There is also an option to take a bus from Prague, leaving Prague every 3 hours and lasting about 2.5 hours in total.

If coming from a different city, there are still more options. From České Budějovice, the easiest, simplest and most efficient way to arrive to Holašovice is by car or taxi as it is only a 20-minute drive. The same is true if coming from Český Krumlov, which is less than 30 kilometers (18 miles) away.